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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.